Friday, May 06, 2011

6th May EBC

We have returned from our second rotation on the mountain. From bascecamp up through the icefall directly to camp 2 - a long and hot day, followed by a rest day at camp 2 then up the Lhotse face on fixed ropes to camp 3.
Again this is was VERY hot. Icy in places, but a decent covering of snow meant that it was not too difficult, just steep and so very, very hot with the snow all around reflecting back at us. Dehydration is a very real problem, and the next time up we'll be in all our down layers, so we will be leaving super-early to get up before the sun starts frying us.
We stopped just in sight of the camp 3 tents, to sit and enjoy the view before heading back down to camp 2 for the night, acclimatization runs complete. Now we are just waiting for a good weather window, where the approaching monsoon winds push the jet-stream from the mountain to give the calm, clear conditions that we need for our summit bid.

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